Cosmetic ethnobotany practiced by tribal women of Kashmir Himalayas.

Objective: Himalayan mountain populations have been dependent upon indigenous plant resources for their health care for many years. Tribal women are interested in use of local herbs for cosmetic purposes. The present work is based on the results of research conducted on cosmetic uses of some important plants by the tribal women in District Poonch, Azad Kashmir Pakistan. Materials and Methods: An ethno botanical survey was carried out during summer 2012. The data were collected from 310 female informants from 16 villages using questionnaire method and semi structured interviews. Results: A total of 39 plants species belonging to 20 families, being used for various cosmetic purposes were recorded. Indigenous species are traditionally used by the locals for problems including acne (16%), hair growth (11%), bad breath (12%), facial spots (9%), allergy, (9%), fairness (8%), wrinkles (8%), eye and lip care (9%). Seventy different recipes were recorded to be practiced by locals using herbal parts. The major plant parts utilized in herbal recipes included fruit (32.8%), Leaves (25.2%), seeds (13.4%) and roots (8.9%). Women of older (>30 years) age group showed greater (67%) response regarding knowledge and practice of cosmetic herbs. Conclusion: This study was the 1st ever project focusing on cosmetic perspectives of ethno-botany in the area. Our study contributes to an improved understanding of ignored aspect of cosmetic ethnobotany among the local women. Further detailed investigations are recommended to record and preserve precious ethno-botanical knowledge of the area.


Introduction
Human civilizations have developed and relied upon domestication of plant species for forage, medicinal uses, fiber culinary and cosmetic purposes (Kala, 2007). Ethnobotanists aim to document, describe and explain complex relationships between cultures and plants, focusing primarily on how plants are used, managed and perceived across human societies (Acharya et al., 2008). The field of ethnobotany requires taxonomic, morphological, ecological and anthropological skills to understand the cultural concepts around the perception of plants (Ali and Qaisar, 2009;Everest and Ozturk, 2005). Medicinal plants are globally used to treat a wide range of ailments, infections and disorders. It is estimated that about 70% of Himalayan population is dependent upon ethnomedicine for their primary health care (Shaheen et al., 2012a). The ethnobotanical practices are very popular among the locals due to ease of availability, good results as well as minimum side effects. More than 10% (>600/ 5700) plant species of Pakistani flora are reported to have medicinal importance (Shinwari, 2002;Ajaib et al., 2010).
Herbal recipes had been used by women through years for enhancement and preservation of beauty (Khan and Khatoon, 2007). Apart from traditional ethno-cosmetic applications of local herbs, efforts are in progress to formulate and develop personal care products based on these natural resources, termed as herbal cosmetics (Afzal et al., 2009). There is an increasing demand of these herbal cosmetics due to their natural purity, little or no side effects and impressive results (Hamayun et al., 2006;. Scientific evidence supports the fact that phytochemicals are very effective in smoothening, calming, restoring and healing of skin and hair; as well as perfuming and correcting body odors (Ghimire et al., 2006).
The tribal women population of Kashmir Himalayas is very laborious and dynamic; and by instinct conscious about cosmetic applications of local herbs (Shinwari et al., 2000). In male dominated, conservative religious mountain tribes, women are reluctant, discouraged and shy to discuss their cosmetic problems with doctors or family member (Shinwari et al., 2006;Dar, 2003). A tragedy of the modern time is that the precious cosmetic ethnobotanical knowledge is disappearing quickly. Due to the lack of interest and knowledge the younger generation prefers allopathic medicines and cosmetic products (Uninal et al., 2006). Preservation of the values of plants can only be maintained with the help of the indigenous people who have used this knowledge for centuries (Shrestha and Dhillion, 2003). Although researchers have conducted a lot of work in the field of ethnobotany, yet its cosmetic aspect has never been focused in this area previously. The main objective of this research was to explore the cosmetic value of plants and make the new generation aware about it.

Materials and methods
Azad Kashmir forms the lower hills of Himalaya and covers an area of 13, 297 km 2 . Total population of Azad Kashmir is estimated at around 4.5 million with a Population density of 343.5/km 2 . The area of Hajira lies in District Poonch, located at latitude 33°46'16.58"N, longitude 73° 53'46.67"E and an elevation of 1545m. The topography is hilly and mountainous with valleys and plains at some places. The total rainfall is about 149.93mm/year. Floristically the study area is located in western Himalayan moist temperate province (Shaheen et al., 2012 a, b).
Field studies were carried out during summer and spring 2012. About 320 women from 16 villages (20/village) were interviewed. Informants were classified in different age groups. One hundred and ten informants were below the age of 30; hundred were in the age group of 30-50 years; and 110 were above the age of 50. Ethno botanical and demographic information was gathered from the respondents by using semi structured, open ended questionnaire. The questionnaire focused on informan's knowledge of the cosmetic herbs, collection, uses and recipe preparation; major infections and disease treated. Local names, distribution of plants, dose preparation, medium of intake and application of cosmetic recipe were also asked from the informants. The data were arranged according to taxonomic identification of plants, their uses and local names. The data were further analyzed for basic categorization of the respondents' age, literacy, gender, use preferences, parts of medicinal plants used, recipes preparation and mode of administration.

Results
This study provides information on the indigenous uses of 39 important plants belonging to 20 families by the local women for various cosmetic purposes (Table 1, 2).

Allium sativum Thom cloves
Toothache Garlic extract is made and cotton is dipped in it. This cotton is applied on teeth. Extra water is released from gums and pain gets reduced.
pimples Garlic cloves are crushed and powder is applied over the pimples. It is than washed off with cold water and dried thoroughly.

Nails
Garlic slices are rubbed on nails. This makes nails stronger.

Aloe barbedansis
Kanwar gandal Leaves Acne Aloe leaf gel is pricked out in a glass and this extract is drunk daily for some days.

Allium cepa Pyaz bulb
Hair growth Outer peels of onion are blended and sieved to extract the liquid. This extract is applied on scalp.

exfoliate dead skin
Flour, onion juice and milk are mixed to form a thick paste. This paste is applied on face and neck for 15 -20 minutes until it dries.
facial massage Fresh onion juice is mixed with fresh yogurt. It is then massaged on entire face in gentle circular movement for 15 minutes every day.

Adhatoda vesica
Baykar Leaves skin rots Leaves are put into the Luke warm water and left for few minutes.
Hands are dipped in this water.

Artemisia rotifolia
Afsanteen Leaves, scales Hand boils Dried leaves and stem scales are chipped into a fine powder. It is then used with water for hand boils.

Berberis lyceum Sumbalo Bark Pimples
Bark is chopped into a fine powder. This powder is used daily for the removal of pimples.

Curcuma picta kachoor Roots Pimples
Root powder is used daily with water to reduce pimples.
Cucumis sativus kheera Fruit dark circles 1: Cucumber slices are placed on eyes for 5 to 10 minutes. 2: Cotton is dipped in cucumber juice. This cotton is applied on eyelids for 10 to 20 minutes for fairness.

Citrus Limon
Limo Fruit tooth tartar Dry lemon peels are Grinded up and some quantity of salt is added. This mixture is used daily with brush to remove the tartar of tooth.

Wrinkles
Lemon extract is applied on face wrinkles twice or thrice a day. nails care 1: Lemon juice is mixed with Luke warm water. A ball of cotton is dipped in this mixture and applied on the nails. This removes the nails dust and gives shiny appearance to nails. 2: Lemon is cut and rubbed on nails for the shining of nails.
Skin cracks Lemon juice is mixed with glycerin to form a mixture. This mixture is applied on hands before sleeping.

Dandruff
Lemon juice and coconut oil are mixed to get a paste. This paste is applied and massaged on hair.
Hair shine A mixture of lemon juice along with mustard oil is made. This is applied and massaged on hair and then washed.

Skin softness
Lemon juice is mixed with almond oil, egg yolk and stirred until a fluffy appearance. This mixture is applied on the skin for 10 minutes and then washed with Luke warm water.

Citrullus vulgaris
Tarbooz Seeds lip cracks Unripen seeds are crushed and mixed with water; applied daily on lips at night and washed with Luke warm water next morning.

Coriandrum sativum
Dhaniya Leaves mouth smell Leaves are chewed for few minutes.

Curcuma longa Haldy Roots
Wrinkles Turmeric powder with milk is mixed up very gently to make a paste and applied daily at face wrinkles.
facial hair Turmeric is mixed with chick pea flour and milk to from a thick paste. It is applied on face daily on night for 10-15 minutes and then washed with Luke warm water.

Citrus reticulate Malta Fruit Skin and nail cracks
Orange juice is mixed gently with honey and applied on hands for skin cracks as well as shining of nails.

Daucus carota
Gajar Root Fairness Carrot juice is extracted and cotton is dipped in it. It is daily massaged on face.

Mentha longifolia Podina Leaves
Fairness Mint leaves are boiled in water for half an hour. This extract is taken at morning before breakfast about 1/3 cups daily.

Blackheads
Extract of mint leaves is applied on the affected areas of skin. It proves as an excellent skin cleanser and curing blackheads.

Pimples
Extract of mint leaves mixed with oat is applied on pimples and washed with cold water after twenty minutes.
mouth smell Mint leaves are boiled for half an hour. This boiled water is effective in reducing mouth smell.

Melia azadirachta
Derek leaves Freckles Fresh leaves are crushed to get an extract. It is taken daily to remove freckles.
seeds eyes swelling Seeds are crushed into a fine powder and applied on eyes to treat swelling of eyes.

Musa paradisiaca
Kayla Fruit lips blackness Inner pulp of banana peel is taken and mixed with lemon juice. This is applied on lips for five minutes twice a week.

Pyrus malus Saib Fruit facial spots
Apple is crushed with turmeric and equal proportion of rose water and lemon juice to form a paste. This paste is applied daily on face for two weeks for curing unwanted spots.

Wrinkles
Apple is mixed with unsalted butter, honey and egg yolk. This mask provides intense moisturizing and antiaging effects when applied for twenty minutes on the face.

Prunus persica
Arhu Leaves skin spots Leaves are crushed and applied on the white circles of face.

Itching
Fresh and healthy Radish is taken, and its epidermis is peeled off. It is cut into small pieces and blended. After blending, juice is sieved and applied on face for three days.

Acne, blackhead
Radish is cut into two halves longitudinally and hollowed internally. This hollow portion is filled up with normal washing soap and then closed with the second separate portion and left into sun light for eight days. This soap is rubbed on the facial skin until it gets absorbed in skin. Then this soap is applied on blackheads and acne to got remarkable effects.

Rosa indicia
Gulab Rose petals Fairness Dry rose petals are grinded up. Chick pea flour and water is added in this ground mixture to make a past. This paste is applied daily on face for fairness.

Freshness
Rose water is applied on facial skin to prevent loss of extra water from skin and keeping the skin fresh.
face scars Rose water is mixed with clay (multani matti) to make a paste. It is applied on face for 15 minutes for one week daily.

Solanum melongen baingan Fruit feet smell
Brinjal is cut into pieces and boiled in water for half an hour. The feet are washed with this Luke warm water for a weak.

Spindus sponaria
Ranthy Fruit hair growth and shine Dry peels are boiled in water. This water is used for hair wash for promoting hair growth and shine.

Solanum nigrum
Kach mach fruit inflammation Solanum nigram is eaten daily for few days. It removes inflammation of facial skin due to summer sun light.

Trachyspermum ammi
Ajwain Seeds facial black spots 1tsp of ajwain powder is mixed with 1cup of curd for two hours. This paste is applied on face, particularly on black spots.

Vitis vinifera
Angoor leaves face spots Leaves are crushed; their juice is extracted and taken orally. This treatment kills the nematodes in the abdomen and ultimately removes the white spots from skin.
Zizipus jujube bair leaves hair growth 1: The Jujuba leaves are grinded and applied on hair before 40minutes of washing. This induces better hair growth. 2: Jujube leaves are soaked in water for few minutes. Then hair are Washed with this water to promote hair growth.

Zingiber officinale
Aderak Roots Acne Ginger juice is applied on acne affected area.

Zanthoxylum alatum Timber
leaves Itching Leaves are boiled in water. This water is used for bathing daily to avoid itching.

Shoot Tartar
The herbaceous branches are used as a brush (misvak) to treat mouth tartar.

Discussion
The respondents of the questionnaire represented a diverse array of tribal women including literate, illiterate, young and elders. Among the 310 informants, the largest (67.9%) proportion was of elderly, above 30 years of age (Table 3). More than half of the respondents were illiterate (59%). Seventy one percent respondents reported unavailability of health facilities, especially for skin, hair and other cosmetic problems which reflect that herbs are the only available choice for cosmetic purposes in the area (Figure 2). The younger age group showed greater interest in synthetic market cosmetic products as compared to that in elder groups. The maximum response (69%) was observed in the older age group i.e. >30 years ( Table  3) indicating popularity of cosmetic ethnobotany in elder tribal women (Khan et al., 2011;Shah & Joshi, 2009). These results reflect that indigenous knowledge is well established but seems to be decreasing in the younger generation.
Mode of administration or method of intake was different for different plants. Some plants were used orally or some plants were used externally for the treatment of many skin disorders. The women of the area prefer cosmetic ethno botany because in the remote areas, women have no alternative choices, poverty and they have faith in plants and trust in the effectiveness of folk lore herbal remedies (Qureshi et al., 2009). These ethnomedicine are natural and beneficial for the health because there are no impurities in this type of medicines which are prepared by people themselves (Ahmed et al., 2009). Women also prefer ethnomedicine because allopathic medicines are expensive as compared to natural ethno medicine (Bekalo et al., 2009).
Unavailability of the modern heath care facilities is another important reason for the tribal women to depend upon the herbal resources as the only available choice.
Seventy two percent respondents reported unavailability of modern health facilities regarding cosmetic purposes (Figure 2). Our results revealed that the older generation possessed sufficient knowledge about cosmetic herbs as compared to younger generation. The younger generation seemed to be involved in synthetic cosmetics inspired by intensive media campaigns and advertisements (Kumar et al., 2009).
The results of this research showed that women's information regarding the medicinal plant used, part used, dose preparation and application was highly credible. However our study was the 1 st ever effort focusing on cosmetic utilization of local herbs and there is further need of detailed and intensive investigations with particular reference to herbal cosmetics in Kashmir Himalayas. The rapid socio economic and cultural transformations in Himalayas have brought about changes in ecology and people plant interaction (Khan et al., 2012). The indigenous knowledge about local herbs is declining in several regions (Kassam et al., 2011).
The findings of the present research are in harmony with the results of ethnobotanical investigations of Bekalo et al., 2009 in Ethopia;Everest & Ozturk, 2005 in Turkey; Kala, 2007 in Indian Himalayas;Kumar et al., 2007 in Jammu and Kashmir, India;and Shaheen et al., 2012 in Azad Jammu & Kashmir, Pakistan. The results of the present study also indicate similar declining trends about cosmetic herbs in the area, particularly in younger generation. Several other research studies also support this fact that there is an urgent need for preserving indigenous knowledge in Himalayas (Jan et al., 2009;Kala & Mathur, 2002;Coopsoomay & Naidoo, 2012). We suggest that young generation should be trained and made aware about importance, sustainable utilization as well as domestication of the precious cosmetic herbs.